We landed at Keflavik airport in Iceland, much later than scheduled. “Feels as cold as it did in Ilullisat,” a co-traveler muttered. I had just been thinking the same. But once we hit the road, comparisons faded. The lava fields and the craters that had once felt surreal when we first arrived in Iceland now seemed familiar. The difference? This time, we were returning from Greenland.
I never imagined I’d plan a trip to Iceland, let alone Greenland. But back in 2014-15, Hurtigruten, the Norwegian expedition cruise company, invited travel agencies on a familiarization trip. Iceland was already gaining traction. Flying to Greenland, however, still felt remote and unknown. One of our senior colleagues went on that trip and came back with plenty to say about Iceland. When I asked about Greenland, all she said was, “You need to go see it for yourself.”
I get it now.
The first time I flew over the Greenlandic ice sheet, I told our guests, “This feels like flying over Antarctica” (even though I hadn’t actually been there). But the resemblance is real. These two edges of our planet feel eerily alike. It’s not just the vastness of the ice but the way it consumes everything in sight. Of course, there are differences: polar bears in the north, penguins in the south. The same expedition ships that sail Antarctica from November to March head north to cruise Greenland’s coastline from June to early September.
For us, flying from Iceland made more sense. And when it comes to Greenland, if there’s one place that always comes up in conversation, it’s Ilullisat.
Ilulissat, the Town of Icebergs
The “town of a thousand icebergs” remains much the same as it was in 2015. Fed by the massive Ilullisat Icefjord, the bay still shimmers with colossal floating sculptures of ice. I’m sure the glacier’s receded, but from a distance, the icebergs still hold their quiet drama.
After dinner, I sat in silence, staring into the fjord under the midnight sun. Something shifted. For the first time in all these years, I felt that more people should see this place. Until now, I used to think maybe it’s too expensive, and only those who really want to should make the effort. I never pushed anyone. Even now, I won’t. It’s not about convincing. But if you ask me whether it’s worth it, I’ll tell you, yes. If Antarctica can inspire a journey, then Greenland deserves its own space in your imagination too.
Why go to Ilullisat?
Here’s the thing: Ilullisat is where silence has a sound. It’s where you stand at the edge of the Earth, learn more about ice and climate change than any documentary can teach, and feel absolutely dwarfed by nature.
How to get there
Fly from Iceland’s Keflavík Airport to Ilullisat on Greenland’s west coast. The flight takes about three to four hours, headwinds willing. Icelandair runs daily summer services.
Where to stay
Pick Hotel Hvide Falk (White Falcon) or Hotel Arctic’s Icefjord wing. Both overlook the iceberg-studded bay and are run by activity companies. What that means for you: excursions start right from the hotel, with no long transfers, no wasted time.
How long is enough?
Spend three nights. That covers the tiny settlement, a boat trip among the bergs, a hike along the Icefjord, and still leaves time to sip coffee while the glaciers creak in the distance.
Where to eat
Both hotels serve solid meals, but Café Iluliaq, near the Disko Line office, is my go-to when I start craving Thai or Japanese flavors. After days of Nordic fare, a chili kick feels magic.
Best time to visit
Aim for June through late-August. Long daylight, milder temperatures, and plenty of iceberg action.
Note: This post isn’t about selling a tour. It’s about sharing a feeling, a place that stays with you long after you’ve left. But if you do decide to join us, we won’t say no.
